Drying and Curing the buds
Now that all our plants are harvested and pruned we’ve done about half the work, the most crucial steps of the whole process still lie ahead.. Drying and (especially) Curing your buds.
We did a whole article over here if you want all the details, here we’ll mostly just show you the pics of this round’s drying and curing, since we had a bit more than we could handle we had to get inventive ^^
Cheese and Big Buddha Cheese buds drying in cupboard
Buds drying between sheets of paper in a cardboard box
If you can, definitely avoid the cardboard box solution, the buds at the bottom may finish flattened due to the weight of the buds on top. If you must go for this, rotate regularly the layers of buds.
The important here is to keep your buds in a dark and dry space. Personally I do this until your hear a little crack when bending the stem, at which point they go into some jars to start the curing process 🙂
Key points during the drying process:
- Keep your buds in a dark area; Light will attack the trichomes
- Keep the buds in a dry space.
Now that your buds are in the jars the process is almost over!
The flowers should still be pretty humid, so for the next 2 weeks you’ll want to open them at least a half hour a day.
Once they start to be crispy, you can add a humidifying packet (~50% humidity) and open them every other day or so.
Key points during the curing process:
- While the buds are still humid, open the jars regularly.
- Store in a dark area. Just as it’s true during the drying process, light will attack trichomes.
- Regularly rotate the buds inside the jar. Since the ones on top will dry faster, you’ll want to even it out.
- Curing can go from 2 weeks to 2 years, just like wine taste and smell will improve with time.
If you go for a long term cure, remember to add humidifying packets. if you don’t the buds will be so dry that they break like dust.